The Heart of Louisiana: Explore outdoor adventures and cultural attractions in Crossroads

Written by: Lisa LeBlanc-Berry

In the Crossroads region, where the cypress bayou country melds into piney hill country, 
and wetlands give way to farmlands, visitors gravitate to such sister cities as Alexandria 
and Pineville with activities that appeal to the whole family. In friendly towns like Leesville, recreational activities abound, and the nearby lakes and bayous offer some of the best fishing and canoeing in the nation. Among the woods and waterways are portions of the magnificent Kisatchie National Forest near Alexandria, and at the region’s western end near Leesville lies the Toledo Bend Reservoir, which fishermen can spend a lifetime exploring. With a history profoundly marked by French, Spanish, African, Native American, and Anglo-American influences, there are storied places throughout central Louisiana, also known as Crossroads.

The region offers great venues for outdoor enthusiasts. Canoe adventures begin just outside Leesville as you glide down beautiful Toro Bayou with its white sand beaches, tall pine trees, rock ledges, and clean swift water. Toro Bayou is 22 miles from Leesville and two miles from the Toledo Bend Dam. The Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries has graded the Toro as one of the best streams in Louisiana for its clean water, natural beauty, and wilderness characteristics. The Toro offers an abundance of good fishing, swimming, rock gardens, wildlife, and botanical beauty.

The Sabine River below Toledo Bend Reservoir to Bon Wier is considered one of the most scenic trips in the state, measuring around 50 miles. Abundant and beautiful white sand bars offer numerous natural campsites, but you should check the high water marks when you plan to camp because the water can rise quickly (for Sabine River flow information call the Sabine River Authority at 337-286-5244).

Tack-a-Paw Expeditions services 50.3 miles of the Sabine River and has divided this stretch into four choices for canoe travelers; it altogether services over 90 miles of rivers and streams in Louisiana, as well as the southern end of Toledo Bend Reservoir, offering a variety of float trips ranging from two hours to several days of canoe camping trips geared for beginners, intermediate campers, and experts (contact Tack-a-Paw Expeditions in Leesville, 337-286-9337, for information).

In Leesville, you can escape the fast pace of big city life and enjoy old fashioned hospitality and various recreational activities, including a municipal golf course, five public parks with walking paths and playgrounds, museums, tennis courts, a skating rink and bowling alley, art galleries, and a diversity of shops and restaurants. There is also easy access to boating, skiing, and various other water sports.

The history of the area can be explored at the Museum of West Louisiana, a complex of historic buildings located at 801 South Third Street in Leesville. The main building is the former Kansas City Southern Railway Depot, built in 1917 (listed on the National Register of Historic Places). There is a unique railroad section house, a circa 1850s dog-trot house, and a pioneer-style barn as part of the museum center. The crown jewel of the district is the historic 1910 Vernon Parish Courthouse, a classical revival-style building topped with an elegant dome. There are many other historic places listed on the National Register that are worth exploring as well (visit www.leesvillela.net).

The first weekend in May, the annual Mayfest is held in downtown Leesville. The celebration includes art, food, and live music. Artisans from all over Louisiana and Texas display and demonstrate their talents. Glass artisans, woodworkers, mixed-media artists, candle-makers, potters, face painters, and many others come to show their works and offer their wares. Children participate in a variety of hands-on art projects.

The Verbeau African Violet club shows and sells beautiful violets—a once-a-year chance to buy beautiful and unusual violets (perfect for Mother’s Day). There are also classic car enthusiasts showing restored classic automobiles. Entertainment each year has included concerts by such nationally known musicians as Jo-El Sonnier, Wayne Toups and Zydecajun, Tab Benoit, Gregg Wright, Irma Thomas, and Charlie Louvin.

Along the banks of the Red River are the sister cities of Alexandria and Pineville, which are wonderful places to explore a diversity of cultures. You will find prime golfing, some amazing spas, quaint B and Bs, and a variety of memorable southern eateries. The region is home to one of the nine distinguished Audubon Golf Trail courses. Oak Wing, located on England Airpark in Alexandria, offers a challenging 18 holes in a beautiful, natural environment. Alexandria is also home to a multimillion-dollar public course, Links on the Bayou.

Much of the acclaimed book The Devine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood revolves around actual places in and around Alexandria, where local color abounds in shops, beauty parlors, day spas, and more than 60 restaurants.

Popular restaurants include Tunk’s Cypress Inn (try Miss Mayme’s famous gumbo, the snappy Sandy, and the oyster bar, where live music is featured nightly). Also worth exploring: Robbie G’s (hole-in-the-wall, but great catfish), Spirits Food and Friends for live local music (get the two-napkin roast beef po-boy and the BBQ shrimp), or take in a cooking class at Kitchen Warehouse. In nearby Lecompte, where the annual Lecompte Pie Festival is held, be sure to check out Lea’s, established in 1928, and famed for its delicious pies (the best of which are the coconut cream, chocolate, and pecan). You may even come across some good local gossip, if you’re lucky.

Alexandria/Pineville boasts more historical markers than any other area outside of New Orleans. The area’s oldest standing structure, Kent Plantation House, built in 1796, offers tours depicting plantation life from 1795-1855. Kent House exhibits butter churning, open hearth cooking, soap making, and other living history demonstrations. ✦

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